Filipa Oliveira

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It's always good to see a new take on an old tradition, and that's exactly what Filipa Oliveira does. I first came across her work in the New Designers exhibition in London last summer, when she'd just been awarded with the Goldsmiths' Company's award for jewellery: quite an honour.

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It was no wonder Filipa had such a crowd around her: this is unusual work, and a great updating of an age-old technique. During her studies Philipa explored the ancient technique of filigree, which is associated with different peoples and cultures at different times and in many countries. Having begun her career in her native Portugal, Filipa took her degree in Jewellery and Metal Design in Dundee.

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Making repeated tiny forms and often incorporating gemstones, Philipa constructs beautifully intricate cell-like patterns: her jewellery almost seems to unfold.

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You can see (and buy) more of Filipa's work at the Barbican, open again now until 6th January, or on her website or facebook page.

Kathryn Hinton

Today I received the loveliest package: some jewellery by Kathryn Hinton. Unfortunately it's not for me - I'm taking it in to the Barbican in London tomorrow, to supplement Kathryn's fast dwindling collection there.

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This jewellery is amazing not just in the end result, but also in it's method of production. You can see Kathryn in the picture above, and what she's doing is using a digital hammer to form the shapes of her jewellery: you can see the piece she's working on on the screen in front of her. 

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The result of this stage is a digital file, as you can see in the image of the ring above. I haven't discussed the next stages with Kathryn, but I'm imaging the digital file is printed out in wax, which is then cast in metal.

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The end product is a silver version of the digital image, which Kathryn then finishes by hand. Pretty incredible really, and the end results are beautiful: facets which catch the light, glimmering gently. Subtle and understated, elegant and sophisticated. Deceptively simple: I love them!

See more of Kathryn's jewellery and silversmithing on her website or pop along to the DJG pop-up shop in the Barbican now until 6th January to buy some. 

Kathryn developed her work at the Royal College of Art, and currently also has a piece in the Crafts Council's Power of Making exhibition at the V&A.

Mariko Sumioka

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No contemporary jewellery lover can have failed to see this striking image of Mariko wearing one of her brooches: it's been one of The images of the season. Born and educated in Japan, Mariko came to the UK in 2009 to study jewellery and silversmithing in Edinburgh. The photo was taken by Agnieszka Tarnowska, who also studied in Edinburgh, and is as stunning as Mariko's jewellery.

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Anyone who has been to Japan will immediately recognise the source of Mariko's inspiration for this collection. It instantly transports me back to Kyoto, with it's bamboo, temples, and tiles. It's definitely worth checking out Mariko's website for some of her photos, sketches and collages - they're just so evocative. 

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Mariko's palette includes bamboo, textiles, and metal which she often enamels or patinates, creating a 'wabi sabi' aesthetic which I love. This jewellery is adventurous in form: catwalk necklaces, asymetrical earrings, and big brooches. All one-off pieces make this very collectable jewellery, but also very wearable. This is real creativity, and I look forward to seeing how Mariko's work develops.

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I took this image of Mariko and some of her jewellery at the Great Northern Contemporary Craft Fair this autumn - beautifully displayed - this is the art of placement! Right now Mariko's work is available in the DJG pop-up shop in the Barbican, London. There's more information about her processes on her blog, and her news on her facebook page.

Ros Millar

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Unusually, I'd heard of and seen Ros Millar's jewellery before I saw it at New Designers last July. Exhibiting in the 'one year on' section, Ros has done such a brilliant job with getting her work out there that it's hard to believe she only graduated in 2009.  

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Ros's trademark is stacks of organically inspired gold and oxidised silver rings, which she makes in her studio in London.

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This jewellery has a very contemporary feel to it. A glimspe into Ros' sketch book shows a cluster of teeth cast in silver, giving a hint of the origins of this bold, assertive work. I'd love to see her graduation collection and see how her work has developed, because I hadn't spotted the toothy link in the jewellery I've seen. This work is already really mature and considered. 

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It's interesting that Ros uses the process cuttlefish casting in her jewellery. This really ancient technique gives more than just texture to her jewellery: there's definitely a hint of the sea in there. The knobblyness suggests barnacles clinging to and growing out of the rings. And is it just me that sees a shoal of swimming creatures in the image above, and waving fronds of some sort of seaweed or some sea creature in the image below?

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Work of this quality does no go unrecognised, and Ros already has a string of shows and awards under her belt. The image of her in her workshop above (by Nick Hand) was taken when she was a finalist for the Balvenie Young Master of Craft Awards, and her blogfacebook page, and website bristle with well deserved achievements.

 

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I'm delighted that Ros is exhibiting with us in the DJG pop-up shop in the Barbican this winter. Open till 8pm every evening till 6th January (except 24th, 25th & 26th December), this is a great opportunity to see her work and stock up on those late Christmas presents! 

Janice Zethraeus

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I first met Janice Zethraeus when she was in the first year of her degree in Jewellery and Silversmithing at the London Metropolitan University. I was an artist in residence there at the time, and Janice was one of those students who stood out: friendly, enthusiastic, and particularly eager to learn. Of course at that stage in a degree course it's all about experimentation, and so when I left at the end of the academic year I had no idea what work Janice would end up producing.

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We met again at the New Designers show last summer, when I was part of the team selecting six of the best new jewellers to join the DJG in our winter show at the Barbican. The competition was tough as usual, but Janice's work stood out and she won a place: great news because I knew she'd also be a good person to work with.

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I'm always interested in where makers get their inspiration from, and Janice was kind enough to share a glimpse inside her sketch book. Photos of cracked mud, imprints of fossils, leaf veins, and sand dunes set the tone. Janice has previously worked as an illustrator, it's no surprise to find ethereal drawings almost floating off the page. 

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With these images in mind, it's easy to understand Janice's jewellery: it flows and sparkles. Sinuous and elegant silver and gold wires - often set with tiny diamonds - almost seem to dance. This is joyful work, and I'm sure would be a pleasure to wear.  

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Having been selected as one of the Crafts Council's 'hothouse' makers for 2011, Janice is definitely one to watch. You can still see (and buy) her jewellery at the DJG show in the Barbican Centre, London, now until 6th January 2012.

 

Busy time...

Looking forward to my last big show of the season now, Made By Hand, next weekend in Newport. Been so busy over the past few weeks I've had no time to post here, however this is what I've been up to...

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I've now got a collection on show in the Victoria Sewart Gallery in Plymouth, in her Christmas exhibition. Nice blog post here. Some great exhibitors that I'm proud to have my work alongside: I particularly love Nobuko Okumura's threads collection, shown in the image above.

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My work's selling really well in the Barbican in London too: my new tanzanite sprig necklace (above) was snapped up almost within a week of first being shown, and my pebble crunch brooch (below) has sold too, plus some smaller pieces. Good to have big sales but also a tinge of sadness when a significant one-off pieces go to new homes!

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I'm so pleased to have a collection back in Bovey Tracey, for the Devon Guild of Craftsmen's Christmas show, and made this doodle panel necklace with wooden beads especially to go there.
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Yesterday I posted a top-up package off to the Waterperry Gallery near Oxford, which always does really well for me. I guess that'll be out on sale by next weekend.

I'm still completing my orders from the Great Northern Contemporary Craft Fair and Lustre: nice to keep Tom in the post office busy! This week I'll also be putting the finishing touches to some new pieces that'll have their debut in Newport next weekend: a very busy time!

Gallery nine

Had a lovely day last Friday taking a package of work into my newest gallery: Gallery nine in Bath.

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Bath is the closest big city to my new home in Somerset, and so I was very pleased when Sarah Denholm, the proprietor, came around to my stand at the Contemporary Craft Fair in June and asked if I'd like to exhibit in her gallery. A few weeks later I ventured into Bath and I found that her gallery was definitely my sort of place, so I gladly accepted her offer to be my representative in this beautiful city!

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The gallery itself is in a really nice area. Margarets Buildings is a small pedestrian street a few minutes walk from the centre. It's less touristy and more residential up here, and the gallery sits alongside some lovely little shops, cafes and restaurants: an ideal situation. 

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Inside everthing is beautifully presented. A number of highly reputable jewellers I know have work there: Catherine Hills, Lesley Strickland, Gail Klevan to name just a few. 

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There are two floors, and addition to jewellery, Gallery nine has a great collection of ceramics.

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These elegant vessels are by David White. Sasha Wardell and Phillip Lydden also have work there which I also love.

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And who can resist Sue Binns lovely stripey and really functional mugs and jugs (not me - I have several!)

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There was a great selection of paintings and prints. I particularly liked the paintings in this picture, by Neil Canning. Made me wish I had more wall space. The textiles were good too: some lovely scarves. Sarah and I obviously have similar tastes.

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All in all, I'd highly recommend a trip to Gallery nine. It's certainly a place I'd be frequenting even if I didn't have some of my jewellery in there.

9b Margarets Buildings, Bath, BA7 2LP

tel 01225 319197

www.gallerynine.co.uk

Pinterest: keeping my dreams in the ether

Moving into a smaller home has upsides and downsides. One plus has been that I've found newer and better solutions to all those piles of paper I used to accumulate with notes about things I loved. The old paper piles hung around and haunted me, accusingly. I couldn't deal with them: what would dealing with them mean? I couldn't possibly buy all those lovely things, and yet neither could I throw away the little snippetty reminders I posessed.

Thankfully the internet often comes to my rescue now. Evernote and Dropbox are great virtual storage spaces for different things. Pinterest is - I think - lesser known and that's partly why I'm focusing on it here. Not only is it just such a nice, visual storage place, but it's also very public, and why not share lovely things? It's fun and inspirational, and definitely worth shouting about!

How it works is that you sign up for an account, and then clip online images and links to virtual pin-boards, covering whatever categories you like. The boards are public, which means you get to see other peoples great finds too.

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So, here's a link to images of some jewellery that I love

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I often find textile designs and graphic design inspirational, so I have a board for 2d designs.

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With moving into a new home, decor is never far from my mind right now. My decor board is a great place for keeping track of 'one day' things, plus things that'll never really fit but I love them anyway!

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Of course food is never far from my thoughs, and in those days before we had a fully functional kitchen having a food board was a great way of keeping my aspirations alive.

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One thing I really missed, when half our possessions were still in London and we were in Somerset, was my collection of ceramics. We've collected a number of beautiful pots and vases over the years, and having them back with us now really makes the cottage feel like home. So I couldn't be without a vessels board: it's been a way of keeping in touch with my missing pots!

That's just a hint of the delights of pinterest. It's a great way of appreciating, promoting, and sharing as well as remembering and finding new lovely / funny / interesting people and things. Try it!

SEED @ Black Swan Arts

Just wanted to show you a few quick snaps of my latest outlet: SEED which is now in the Black Swan Arts building in Frome.

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Having recently moved to Somerset I've been checking out potential nearby outlets for my jewellery, and had shortlisted both SEED (which used to be in Catherine Hill) and Black Swan Arts. Imagine my distress when I heard that the Black Swan craft shop was closing due to Somerset County Council's arts funding cuts, and SEED was moving! Luckily it was only short lived as it emerged that SEED was moving into Black Swan's shop: a really great solution, to have a home grown business taking over this key Frome facility. 

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I was delighted when Sinead approached me about supplying some jewellery for the new enlarged SEED. The shop only opened the day before these photos were taken, and it had all been set up in record time. Not surprisingly there's a freshness to the display, alongside the feel of this being an aladdin's cave, ripe with opportunities to discover and be delighted.

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Regulars will recognise the familiar SEED style: every corner looks fantastic, full of gorgeous products, treats for the self and the home. 

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The shop is a haven for gift hunters, with everything from cards and candles through to table wear and probably even tables, because most of the display furniture is actually for sale!

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Sinead really does have a knack for both selecting and displaying things, so SEED is well worth a visit. The Black Swan Arts gallery is still open on the first floor with a good programme of exhibitions, and the craft studios and Divas cafe are still open too, so there's plenty to see and do within the same building.

2 Bridge Street, Frome, Somerset, BA11 1BB.

 

Contemporary Craft in the South West

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I'm getting really excited now because it's time for the Contemporary Craft Fair in Bovey Tracey again! Last year I had great fun exhibiting: it's one of the friendliest shows, very well run, and is really just a fantastic event with something for everyone! 165 UK designer makers, demonstrations, workshops, entertainment, food: what more could you want?

Good weather? Well amazingly it looks as if the weather this year is going to be sort of sunshine and showery, which I guess is pretty good. A bit of a surprise as it always seems to be either a heatwave or a torrential downpour every time I've been to Bovey so far - this time I might even risk leaving my fan at home!

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Anyway - I hope to see you there: I'm on stand B31.

The fair opens on Friday 10th June at 10am, and runs from 10am - 5pm on Saturday and Sunday too. Full details here.

 

Barbican buzz

Life in the country is good, but I did enjoy being in London again to set up my jewellery display in the Barbican on Friday. The Barbican was one of the first places I exhibited as a jeweller and every time I visit I still get a buzz of excitement! 

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The show this summer is looking really good. We're in a slightly different place - just opposite our normal spot and even closer to the food hall on the ground floor. 

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One of the six New Designers we selected to exhibit with us last winter was Tom McDowell. Having won the Stephen Maer award Tom's going to be exhibiting with us for the next two years, and the Barbican have also selected one of his humorous brooches to adorn our brochure for the show.

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Sometimes we're lucky enough to be able to invite special guest exhibitors for a show, and this time we've selected four fantastic jewellers to join us. Sarah Parker-Eaton is always one of my favourite exhibitors at Goldsmiths' Fair. Her intricate and quirky jewellery is based on plankton and I find it fascinating! Nan Nan Liu exhibited with the DJG as a New Designer when I did, and makes fantastic pieces in silver and paper. All the exhibitors were stunned by her work at set up! John Moore has beautifully sleek and colourful jewellery in anodised aluminium, and Ulli Kaiser makes stunningly vibrant work with tiny coloured beads.

You can see all the work - literally hundreds of pieces by 27 designer jewellers - every day now until 22nd June. The sales desk is open from 12 midday till 8pm. Enjoy!

 

Coming soon...

May is a month of preparation in my studio, because June is show month! Firstly I'll be setting up in the Barbican for the Designer Jewellers Group summer show, which opens on Friday 3rd June and runs through till 22nd.

London Jewellery Week is from 6th - 12th June, and at that time my work will be on show in the Barbican, Studio Fusion, and Platform Gallery in Hatton Garden.

The bad news is that I won't be in London myself then: however the good news is I'll be heading down to Devon for The Contemporary Craft Fair in Bovey Tracey! If it's anything like last year, this'll be great fun, with 165 top UK designer makers from all disciplines, and loads of activities going on. Well worth a visit. 

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Black and Gold

The Roger Billcliffe Gallery in Glasgow is holding a 'black and gold' jewellery exhibition and invited me to participate, an offer which I've gladly accepted. The exhibition opens on 7th May and continues to 28th. 

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I've just noticed that Craft Scotland have used an image of my oxidised silver and 18ct gold flock necklace to advertise the event, which is very nice!

Wish I could visit, as I particularly like the combination of oxidised silver and gold together in jewellery: it's what I usually choose to wear myself. I'd love to see what other jewellers have made. Although of course that might be just too tempting!

My new collection: prototypes

Tying in with the wooden bird brooch series I posted about last week, here's a sneak preview of some more new pieces.

Although I've made lots of brooches using walnut before, I've never yet carried that through into making necklaces and earrings with wood too. I've decided it's about time I did so, and these are some of the prototypes.

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Sprig pendant in 18ct gold, sterling silver, and walnut.

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Sprig pendant in sterling silver and walnut.

There's a simple pendant without the sprig too, and stud and dangly earrings to match. Other pendants, cufflinks, and more to follow.

I'll hoping to get some feedback at Desire, the Jewellery and Silversmithing Fair I'm exhibiting at from tomorrow. Please feel free to leave some here too!

'Make Jewellery'...

'Make Jewellery': well making jewellery is certainly something I do, and I'm very happy to be featured in the 'Make Jewellery' magazine (out today) as their 'blog of the month'! Can't help feeling a bit of a fraud though, as I've been so busy recently I've let my normal weekly blogging schedule slip!

I guess the thing is that life as a jewellery designer / maker is a very seasonal thing: much more so than I realised before I became one. Of course you'd expect Christmas to be the main sales time, and it is, but that's just a part of the picture. Once the Christmas rush is over I find I need to turn my attention to a bit of admin, especially in order to meet the tax return deadline at the end of January. After this I have to get straight back into designing new jewellery because most of the application deadlines for the big autumn / winter shows are in March, and that means I need fresh images.

My collection this season is based largely on the imprints in my mind of the end of our garden: the bantam hens that visit from next door and line up on the bench, the view of the valley and hills, the silhouette of the holly tree and the often amazing skies. I knew I wanted to add to my series of 'bird brooches', using primarily silver and wood. Limiting my pallet is key for me: otherwise I easily end up with a horrible miss-mash.

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I often think things through in the shower and sketch ideas on the steamy glass. Luckily no trace of most them remains, but a few make it on to the next design stage. I start playing with pieces of cardboard, and sketching on my iPad. I find this a terrific new tool as I can play around with the images, moving elements around in a way I can't do with a sketchbook.

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Next I start cutting up pieces of wood and soldering together bits of silver, playing with all the separate elements and swapping them around in different formations. 

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Deciding which formation to go with is the hard part, and I always put off the final riveting / soldering / gluing bit for as long as possible. Many seedling ideas get discarded along the way, and I accumulate a pile of unused 'elements', most of which will eventually get used somewhere, but maybe in something quite different!

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These are some of the brand new finished brooches! 

I'll be exhibiting them along with the rest of my jewellery in 'Desire' Jewellery and Silversmithing Fair next week, so do come along if you can. Email me for a free private view invitation for Thursday evening (3rd March, 4.30 - 8pm). The show continues from 10am - 5pm on 4th - 6th March, in London SW15. Full details on the Craft in Focus website.

Alice O'Neill stitches it up

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When the DJG selection team visits New Designers to choose our six new jewellers for the year it's a very democratic affair. Just like the buying public we all have our own personal preferences, which is great because then we end up with a more varied and interesting show. It does mean though that as much as I admire all our new makers, I wouldn't want to wear all their jewellery myself. I was however immediately drawn to Alice O'Neill's jewellery on a personal level, and would love to be able to wear it! 

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Alice is inspired by 'functional paraphernalia' and particularly things that relate to clothes and their making. In practice this means that she constructs necklaces and cufflinks from washing symbols, bases hair pins on scissors, and creates rings that reference needles. 

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One thing I really admire about Alice is the way she's prepared to push boundaries and be a bit more adventurous in her jewellery. This image shows one of her trademark 'button brooches'. These sleek silver brooches slide onto vintage buttons that the wearer sews onto their clothes... if you can bear to detach them from slither of beautiful antique fabric they're sold with, that is.

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This adjustable 'hook and eye' necklace combines beautifully finished gold-plated silver with a 'chain' of lace: very on-trend with it's nod to burlesque.

Quirky, tactile, original, and contemporary: Alice's jewellery is simply gorgeous!

You can still see and buy Alice's lovely work at the DJG pop-up shop in the Barbican from 27th December - 5th January.

Last minute Christmas shopping!

Just thought it was worth saying that it's not too late to order jewellery direct from me for delivery in time for Christmas: the snow looks great but it's not the best weather to go shopping in!

These two price lists show my 'Sketches' and 'Nest' collections, and all the prices include delivery by the Royal Mail Special Delivery service. This normally gives guaranteed next day, but given the weather I'd rather take your order by midday on Monday 20th, so I can get your package in the post on that same day.

Click here to download:
Sketches_collection_price_list.pdf (5.98 MB)
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Click here to download:
Nest_collection_price_list.pdf (13.14 MB)
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I can take card payments over the phone, so please either phone me (on 07530 292872) or email me (on christine@christinekaltoft.co.uk) and I'll ring you back.

Look forward to hearing from you!

Tom McDowell: making the world a less sombre place

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Meeting Tom McDowell at New Designers last July was a hoot. His new jewellery collection - based on children's drawings - is so refreshingly different that we knew his colourful pieces would be a great addition to our exhibition at the Barbican this winter. 

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Tom believes that the act of wearing jewellery is too often a formal activity, and that it's important for us to sometimes let go of the seriousness of being a grown-up. He works with children and through his jewellery seeks to share their fresh, fun outlook on life with adults. 

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In his jewellery Tom uses anodised aluminium, silver, and a variety of other media. This knobbly kneed giraffe, for instance, has patches of flocking, making it very tactile. The birds often incorporate real feathers. Each piece conveys a real sense of personality, and I'm sure each will become particularly treasured once in the hands of the right owner. 

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Beautifully designed and made, the silver rivets are often functional as well as decorative. Aluminium is an unforgiving material: not easy to work with, but Tom uses it in a way that maximises it's strengths: it's colourful, light in weight, and can be very graphic.This is jewellery that I think really will help to meet his aim of making the world a more smiley and enjoyable place. This little chicken brooch certainly works for me!

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You can see and buy Tom's jewellery at the Designer Jewellers Group pop-up shop in the Barbican, London, from now until 23rd December 2010, and then again from 27th December - 5th January 2011.

 

Designer Jewellers Group at the Barbican

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Our winter show at the Barbican is now up and running! I love doing this show because one of the things that I really miss about my previous career is the team work: pulling together with a great group of people towards a shared goal is something I really enjoy. 

There are just over 30 of us in the Designer Jewellers Group and we work as a co-operative, each taking on different roles and tasks. Our aim is to make sure that we put on great shows and bring a variety of high quality designer jewellery to the buying public - and of course make some good sales!

 

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One of the strengths of the group is its diversity. Different jewellers design, make and sell in so many different ways that there's always something to learn from each other. It also means that our show has a wide appeal: there's jewellery there for people with very different tastes and budgets. And as we're 'doing it for ourselves' the people on duty are always practicing jewellers who actually have work on display and know the other makers.

The other thing I really like is that my job with the group at the moment is co-ordinating the New Designers. Each year we select six of the best to join us in our winter show. We liaise and offer support to them over the summer and it's always a highlight of the exhibition to see the fantastic new work they bring. But that's a subject that deserves a post of it's own!

Do pop along to see the show: it's on every day from now until 5th January (except 24th, 25th, 26th December) from 12 midday till 8pm. On the ground floor of the Barbican Centre next to the new food hall (where you'll find great coffee, cakes and more!)

 

Anodized!

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Received a very nice surprise in the post the other day: a copy of Clare Stiles new book 'Anodized!'

As I hadn't ordered it I kept my fingers crossed and scanned the 'artist index': yes! Page 48 has an image of one of my aluminium necklaces!

Thanks Claire and Lark Books: the book looks lovely, and I can see work by a number of jewellers I know. Going to settle down for a good read now.